When selecting a spot for your new tree, you should look for an area with well-draining soil, away from any lawn sprinklers, as constant moisture on the bark and leaves can lead to disease and rot.

Make sure you find a spot where your tree will receive sufficient sun. Most of the trees TreePeople distributes are fine with either full sun or partial shade. However, if the spot is too shady, it may stunt your tree’s growth or result in the development of mold or mildew.

To check if there are utility lines below the spot you’ve chosen, please call 811.

Once you’ve selected your spot, it’s time to ready it for planting. Grass and weeds can compete with your tree for water and nutrients, so you’ll need to remove them. Clear a 2-3 foot circle of stray weeds or grass.

Measure the height of the root ball—or the mass of roots that begins where the trunk meets the soil. Dig a hole as deep as the height of the root ball, and two to three times its width.

Don’t dig deeper than necessary—it’s important to always keep the root crown level with the ground, since planting too deep can cause the trunk to rot!

Set the container on the ground, lay the tree on its side, and hit the sides of the container to loosen the root ball. Then, carefully slide the tree out, holding it by the root flare or bottom of the stem—never yank it by the trunk!

Massage the root ball on all sides, including the bottom, so roots are loose and ready to grow out horizontally.

Immediately set the tree in the hole so the top of the root ball lines up exactly with the soil surface. If you leave the root ball exposed to sun and air too long, or the roots will dry out.

Turn the tree so that it is oriented and centered. If the tree is standing crooked in the hole, tilt the root ball and add soil underneath so the tree will level out.

Using the soil you just removed, fill in the empty space around the rootball. Press gently with your hands or the back of a shovel to remove air pockets.

When backfilling is complete, the trunk flare should be at the grade of the soil or 1” above.

A berm—or a low ring of soil around the tree—helps to capture water and guide it straight to the roots where it’s needed most.

To create one, make a ring of soil about 6 inches high, outside of the root ball’s perimeter.

Adding a 3-inch layer of mulch around the tree will help control weeds and prevent evaporation. If you choose to add it, push the mulch 5-6 inches away from the tree’s base, because the trunk will rot if covered.

Remove any small stakes which may have been tied against the trunk in the nursery container. Take two larger wooden stakes and line them up on opposite sides of the tree, outside of the root ball.

Ensure the stakes don’t rub on any major branches. If the tree is leaning, position the stakes to tie the tree so that it will stand straight. Then, pound stakes into the ground so they are sturdy, and use flexible ties to secure the tree to the stakes.

How often: About once a week.

How much: About 15-20 gallons of water (three or four 5 gallon buckets) for a 15 gallon tree.

How to do it: Create a 3-4 foot wide basin around the tree to hold the water. Use a bucket to slowly add water into the basin.

Pro Tip: Do not water on the plant (leaves or trunk) in the heat of Summer.

How often: About once or twice a month

How much: Water needs to soak down 12-18 inches. Measure moisture depth with a soil probe/sampler, or simply shove a long-blade screwdriver in the soil. When it won’t go further, you’ve likely hit the dry layer.

How to Do It: Make sure you water slowly with a bucket or a hose, so the water can sink down into the roots.

Pro Tip: If you can, use an “in-line emitter hose” found at home improvement stores. Start about halfway from the trunk. Spiral it outward, forming concentric circles out beyond the drip line. Consult the store specialist for how to connect the hose to your water source. Run it until the water depth is 12-18 inches (this could take one or more hours).

Choose a pot that’s 20–24 inches tall and wide. 15-gallon pots work too—but expect smaller trees.

Make sure the pot has drainage holes—or drill 4 holes at the bottom.

We recommend ceramic pots versus plastic, as ceramic (including terracotta) will help prevent root rot because it is porous.

Use nursery-grade potting mix, not garden soil.

Start to fill the pot with soil so the rootball will sit 2 inches below the rim.

Please do not put gravel at the bottom of your pot, as it will impede proper drainage.

We recommend placing mulch on top of the soil, as it helps with water retention.

Gently place the tree and cover the roots completely with soil. Add 1–2 stakes if the tree is tall or unstable.

Potted trees dry out faster—keep an eye on soil moisture and water when the top 1–2 inches feel dry.

Water with 4-5 gallons or until water drains out the bottom. The goal is to get the soil thoroughly saturated with water.

Try not to leave standing water in your plant saucer/drip tray, as it more likely to cause root rot.

• Water when top soil dries out (1–2 inches for pots, 3–4 inches for ground).

• Deep water twice a week during the first summer for young trees.

• Clear out any grass or weeds before mulching—they compete for water and nutrients.

• Add 2–4 inches of mulch around the base—keep it off the trunk to prevent rot (about a fist away).

• Mulch helps retain moisture and keeps new weeds from growing.

• Remove dead, damaged, diseased, or crossing branches.

• Prune just above outward-facing buds after the first year.

• To learn more about proper tree pruning, read our Pruning 101.

• Every 2–3 years, slide out the tree and trim the outer 1/3 of the rootball.

• Re-pot with fresh soil and water well.